Embroidery ribbons has many advantages over traditional satin stitch embroidery or a cross, at least visually. Ready-made paintings are striking in their volume and realism, and there is hardly anyone to doubt that this kind of needlework is a whole art. And, of course, it has a lot of pitfalls and tricks, so beginners should study ribbon embroidery with special care and not neglect even the most seemingly insignificant nuances.
Embroidery ribbons for beginners step by step: basic knowledge
What is best to embroider with ribbons? Of course, a professional of this business will be able to tame even the most recalcitrant fabric, but if you are a beginner, it’s better to turn to materials that are as simple as possible: canvas (No. 14-16 for Aida, but you can pick up larger cells for training), simple not dense but stiff fabric (to keep the shape, but not to hinder needle punctures). Of course, after developing a skill, you can embroider both on a blanket, and on a woolen coat, and on other products, however with each of them there will be many difficulties that you should not try to master until basic knowledge is worked out to automatism. Professionals recommend abandoning translucent fabrics of any stiffness and texture, because the seams will not disappear and spoil the impression of the finished picture.
What to embroider? The variety of ribbons for this type of needlework is truly great: from thin and light nylon pieces, to expensive silk, with artful painting, which gives greater interest to the product. For training, of course, it is better to purchase ordinary satin ribbons of different widths (depending on the element that you will embroider): first, you don’t have to think about which side is the front side and you won’t get confused in the direction of work; secondly, it is not a pity to make a mistake with them; thirdly, they are soft enough and stretch out pretty well, practically not damaged.
The width of the ribbons for embroidery varies from 3 to 16 mm, and for trial embroidery it is recommended to use ribbons 3-5 mm wide: they are easiest to draw through the holes in the fabric and the eye of the needle, there are no particular difficulties in draping. Ribbons with a width of 10-16 mm are often used to decorate individual parts in 2-3 stitches, since they deform the fabric greatly due to the volume, and it is not worthwhile to stitch the material with them.
Ribbon embroidery needles are similar to those used to create tapestries: they have a rather wide and long eyelet, and they themselves are thick enough to not break when a thick fabric is punctured. In addition, they must have a blunt end that does not tear the weaves of the fabric threads, but only pushes them away, creating a hole. The larger the needle number, the tape is already selected for it, and vice versa. However, even in such a situation, it is not always possible to stretch the ribbon through the eye of the needle, therefore experts recommend to attend to the acquisition of pliers, which will stretch the tip of the ribbon, as well as a thin awl, with which this tip can be easily pushed into the eyelet. The rest of the tools are already selected for your needs: in particular, working with or without hoops, depends on the area of the fabric on which you will embroider, as well as the convenience of fixing it in your hands.
Professionals are advised to purchase a lighter that fastens the edges of the finished ribbons: this is a must for most of them, since the threads often begin to open at the cut point, and if the thing you have decorated with embroidery is in use, the picture will quickly lose its original appearance.
Video to help and the basics of needlework
To train the base seams, professionals recommend gabardine - among other materials of this type, it wins in its structure, ease of needle passage through the fabric, as well as the appearance of the finished product. If it is still difficult for you to search for the necessary points on dense material, you can purchase an outline with large cells, but experts do not recommend using it later for translating the conceived paintings: visually, the pictures embroidered on fabric and canvas will have many differences, and not in favor last.
An important nuance concerning the hoop is peculiar to embroidery with ribbons: the size of the fixing frame must be chosen so that the entire area on which the picture is placed immediately gets inside. If at least the edge of the embroidery is squeezed, the product can be considered spoiled: in contrast to the picture embroidered with a cross, the one that was created from ribbons can not be smoothed or stretched back. Therefore, either you are lucky to find the hoop of the desired width and height, or you have to work without them. However, as noted by professionals, it is quite convenient even for beginners.
To insert a ribbon into a needle, its end is not cut straight, but at an angle, and after inserting it into the needle, it is recommended to melt it on the fire immediately by pulling it down and tying a small knot on it, so it will be fixed as securely as possible. On very wide ribbons - from 5 mm - the knot is tied flat to keep the accuracy on the wrong side. For thin ribbons, the end can be fixed differently: pierce the free short edge with a needle, retreating 1.5–2 cm, as shown in the photo, and extend the needle through it. Some professionals do the opposite: they burn the flat end, and leave the diagonal one close to the eye of the needle, so that in the event of an accidental departure, it is just as easy to put it back.
- A classic stitch, which everyone who tries to embroider in ribbon embroidery must master, is a straight stitch or a ribbon stitch. It is no different from the traditional stitch thread: the needle pierces the fabric from the wrong side, displayed on the front, the tape straightens and fits on the surface of the wrong side down, after which the needle again pierces the fabric, but from top to bottom. The stitch length varies depending on the pattern, and its tension is regulated by the required volume: for a plane figure, the tension is maximum, for a convex one it is loosened. The change of direction allows you to line several straight stitches into the finished element.
- The traditional (French) nodule is no less simple and is great for creating small flower buds: the needle is pulled onto the surface of the fabric, the tape is straightened and wrapped around the needle leading to it. The classic number of revolutions - 1-2, but it depends only on the intended element. After the needle remains to stick next to the previous puncture site, without removing from the tape node, and withdraw on the wrong side.
- Air stitches-loops are obtained if you additionally use straws for juice or thin pencils. The needle is displayed on the front side, the tape is drawn out, and then at a distance of 0.5-1 mm from the puncture site, the needle is inserted back into the fabric. Between the parts of the tape is placed a straw, which the tape should embrace when tightening. It is possible to fix and decorate such a seam, if you put a bead strung on a thin thread in the center.
- The last base seam is Japanese. The needle pushed outward pierces the tape laid on the surface at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the puncture site in the center or from the edge, and through this point goes to the wrong side.
All other seams that can be involved in embroidery with ribbons can be considered composite or modified, since they are performed using the same techniques, but with certain changes and additions. Beginners need to master the above elements to try to repeat a simple master class in flower embroidery on fabric.
Embroider a rose bud: master class
If you are working on a specific pattern, initially it should be marked on the fabric. This can be done either with a pen or a pencil, or with a marker, washed with water for 48 hours. Some craftswomen draw a contour with single stitches with a thread: any of the ways is allowed. For small elements, for example, rosebuds, with which beginners should start, it is not necessary to make a sketch.
- The needle is drawn to the front surface, the tape is stretched on it with the wrong side up. Dr. needle with a thread in 1 addition, you need to go along the edge of the ribbon, making quite long stitches. The end of this thread should enter the place of the primary puncture of the material, after which it should be pulled to collect the tape. The same needle (where the thread is threaded) is required to fix the edge of the tape, moving around the puncture site counterclockwise.
- When the central part of the bud is finished, the same is done with another ribbon, which is placed under the previous one. Such a move will provide greater flower pomp. If you want to make it more complete, you can put on the "petals", closer to the core, small transparent beads, imitating water droplets.
Of course, this is not the only way to embroider a rose with ribbons. The following algorithm, proposed below, is a bit more complicated: the open bud consists of classical straight seams, which form its basis, and additional steps that help to form lush petals.
- A five-pointed "snowflake" is planned on the fabric, in the center of which a needle with a ribbon comes out of the inside. It is better to lay it immediately face up, so that there is no need to subsequently tighten with an additional amount of tapes.
- 5 "rays" are drawn from the center to the edges, after each of which the needle must again come out from the central point of the puncture. If you make a large flower (more than 5 cm in diameter), you can increase the number of "rays", but the resulting sectors should be equal.
- When the last "ray" is formed, the needle will pass through the center, but under the previous "rays", instead of piercing the fabric and being on the wrong side.
- Now each new seam will be a kind of pulling the ribbon between the beams with alternating its location and adding loops. There is almost no clear pattern, the main thing is to twist the ribbon so that the flower gradually formed.
- As soon as the volume and shape of the element will correspond to your idea of it, the needle with a ribbon is held under the flower and goes to the wrong side of the middle of the bud, after which the ribbon is fixed.
In the process of embroidery with ribbons, there are no clear rules and algorithms: masters can give advice, reveal nuances and mistakes of beginners, but the schemes themselves are implemented intuitively, and it is not forbidden to change the technique of seams or their location. Any creative activity is devoid of frames, and in the process of embroidering with ribbons you can see this for yourself.