Unusual pleated skirt deserves special attention. She is playful and feminine, allows you to hide what you do not like, and emphasize the existing advantages.
She can be purchased at any clothing store, but not always the proposed model - this is what you need. therefore it is better to sew a pleated skirt by yourself, and in some variants it can be done without a preliminary pattern and even just making folds on an already favorite skirt. The main thing - to pick up what is closer to you, and get acquainted with the rules of sewing.
How to make folds on the skirt?
To sew the skirt in the fold, decide which folds you want to make. The folds are counter, bow and one-sided. But common to them is the depth, which defines the inner and outer folds.
- Normally the fold depth is double the width. To calculate the total number of folds, first measure the circumference of the hips. To prevent movement, add 4 cm to the stock. The resulting value is divided by the width of the folds. If the volume of the hips is 100 cm, add 4 cm. If the width of the fold is 4 cm, the number of folds will be: 104/4 = 26.
- It is very important to determine the model of the skirt and the consumption of the fabric with the marking of the folds. The width of the fabric is always greater than 3 p. girth hips. When the circumference of the hips 104 cm, the width of the fabric will be 312 cm.
- The pleated skirt is sewn from 3 parts. Cut the cloth skirt along the second edge, just build the rest. Do not forget to leave allowances and be sure to process the cut on the bottom of the cloth.
- Lay out the folds on the constructed patterns carefully. Measure the length, which is equal to the height of the thighs with an allowance, from the top edge of the cloth and, having marked the depth and width of the folds, draw them all. Sweep the folds and iron as one-sided. Stitch seams neatly. Now that the pleated skirt is finished, sweep over the allowances.
How to sew a skirt with pleats?
- To sew the skirt in the fold of the universal method, You will need scissors, pins, cloth, thread, tailor’s chalk, iron, sewing machine, and measuring tape.
- First, take three measurements: the length of the product, the circumference of the hips and waist. Measure the length of the skirt on the fabric, taking into account the allowances for seams and hem.
- Given the depth of the fold, which should be two of its width, calculate the width of the cloth. Cut the fabric from edge to edge.
- Similarly, cut out the second and third panel. Spread them on the table with the wrong side and mark the line of the hips. From the top cut, set aside your hips. To allow for a stitched belt, add 1 cm. Use Tailor's chalk to mark the width and depth of the folds. Then sweep them away and iron them.
- On the side sections from the wrong side, make a panel. Stitches, strike off. Run one stitch from the bottom to the line of the thighs, and then perpendicularly stitch to the line of connection of the edges of the folds. Seam allowances sweep.
- Sweep the belt to the top of the skirt and try on the future skirt. Cut the excess length along the upper edge and remove the excess width into the depth of the folds.
- At the rear edge of the unstressed notch, cut the depth of the fold. Uncut, leave a 0.5 cm long fabric to the point where the edges of the folds converge. Baste the folds and iron them to depth.
- Lay the zipper under the edges of the cut. Sew it over the edge. Do the same with the second part of the zipper. Sew a belt. Your exclusive pleated skirt is ready.
- Note that the number of folds should be equal to the circumference of the hips (taking into account the allowance) divided by the width of one fold. The seams should be in the inner part of the fold, and the number of folds should be a multiple of the number of panels.
Read also:How to sew a bell skirt?
Pleated skirt pattern
- To build a skirt pattern, first you need to take the measurements of the hips circumference and waist, as well as the length of the skirt. Be sure to take into account the increase in the free fit of the skirt. To add to the hips, add 4 cm, and along the waist - 2 cm.
- The fabric is taken taking into account that its width is enough for 3 full hips, with an increase for free fit, seam allowance and fit, as well as the required length plus 7 cm. If the fabric is wide, the allowance should be between 5 and 10 cm, if already, the allowance is 25 cm. The depth of each fold is from 7 to 14 cm, and the width along the hip line is from 4 to 8 cm.
- To calculate the number of folds, the width of the skirt in a straight hip should be divided by the width of the fold.
- Calculate the desired width and sweep the cloth. At a distance of 20 cm from the top cut, draw a straight line for the hips. On it, mark the location of the folds with dots. Depart from the edge of 1 cm - it will be an allowance for the seam. From the resulting point, set aside half the depth of the fold, from it - the width of the fold, now the full depth, then the width and further in the same way. Marking half the depth of the fold and allowance for 1 cm for the seam finish marking.
- All the cloths stitch, the exception is the last seam. Sweep up the bottom and stitch it, leaving 10 cm to not stitched sections of the cloth. The depth of the folds on each side decrease by 1 cm in a straight bottom. Fold lines from points at a distance of 1 cm through the points marked on the straight hips. If the marking was done on the wrong side, sew the fold lines with padding stitches.
- On the front side of the line to the bottom of the thighs lay the folds and sweep. Then stretch the pleats from the hips to the waist. If the width of the fabric is larger at the waist than needed, distribute the remainder to the depth of the folds at the waist. Smooth out the folds from the waistline to the hips and through the cloth dipped in a weak solution of vinegar, iron. After that, fold the folds, and remove the outline. Last seam stitch, and hem down to the end. It remains to process the buckle and sew the belt.
A real gift for women will be a pleated skirt that came to us from Scotland. Appearing as part of a wardrobe for men, she very quickly conquered the fashionable Olympus and to this day remains on top of it.
Skirt in the fold is able to emphasize the beauty and elegance of women's legs. A well-chosen fabric texture and color will give an image a grace and unique style. It is possible to sew a skirt in a fold from any fabric. And observing the simple rules of creating such a skirt, you can create a real masterpiece that will not differ in any way from the best design works presented on world catwalks.