Hooks, buttons, buttons - the choice of zipper depends on the style of clothing, but a zipper is considered a universal way to fasten a skirt or dress. True, this is an insidious detail, because if you stitch it in incorrectly, the whole silhouette will be spoiled. How to sew a secret zipper in a dress so that it adequately justifies its status as an inconspicuous item of clothing?
Comfortable and ... cunning
The clasp on the dress is an important detail on which it depends how comfortable it will be in the dress. But there are dressmakers who are not too fond of sewing in lightning, citing the fact that they can disperse at the most inopportune moment. In fact, this is a very convenient form of fasteners - provided that all the nuances of technology are observed.
The most common mistake is to close the zipper too tightly. From this begin the distortion of the fabric and the deformation of the seams. Another possible insidious nuance is an uneven line. In this case, it becomes very inconvenient to fasten clothes, and pieces of fabric constantly fall on the teeth, making it difficult.
We work with the mind
Sewing, like any other kind of needlework, does not tolerate vanity. So we stock up on time, the necessary materials, tools - and go ahead, to conquer Olympus of tailor's art! We will need:
- secret lightning itself;
- sewing machine;
- special foot for stitching the lock, which is equipped with recesses, pushing the zipper teeth to fit the stitching more closely.
2 ways to insert a hidden fastener
With a foot for a hidden zipper
Before stitching a zipper into a product, for example, in a dress, on the back it is necessary to process the sections of the central seam with an overlay stitch, overlock or with an oblique bei and strengthen it with a strip of adhesive non-woven fabric. The required cutting width is at least 1.5 cm.
- On the seamy side we bend the delayed allowance with a finger, pressing it to the fold line.
- Zipper in the open form is applied to the face of the stock, combining the teeth with the marked lines of the middle.
- The top of the zipper is equal to the notch line.
- Catching close to the edge, we tackle the lock from top to bottom to the stock.
- Repeating the previous step, sew the second half of the zipper.
- First, we embed the left side. Having installed a special foot, we put its groove on the "snake", bending the teeth outwards, and stitch our detail with an even stitch, moving from the neck down to the opened lock.
- We tie the two ends of the thread.
- Repeat steps 6, 7 for the right side.
- We fasten the lock and sweep the middle seam on the dress, stitching the stitches just below those that were made for the zipper.
- We return the usual foot and dock the middle seam, making the shift to the left by 1 mm from the border of the seam of the sewn-in fastener. At the same time, we hold the edge of the braid to ensure that the line is as close as possible to the teeth.
- We fasten the thread and undo the allowances.
The practical answer to the question of how to sew a zipper into the side seam of a dress does not differ from the case with the back discussed above, except for one thing: the allowance is not glued with interlining fabric. Otherwise, the seam with zipper will bulge on the curves of the figure.
Without foot for attaching a secret zipper
Not all modern sewing machines are equipped with a set of special legs for attaching zippers, embroidery or sewing buttons. But you can get by with what you have, namely with a foot with one pedal. To do this, place a slice with a zipper to the left of the needle, put the needle as close as possible to the teeth and perform the seam. We cut the left cut not from the top down, but on the contrary, from the bottom up, just moving the foot very close to the zipper. That's the whole simple answer to the question of how to carefully sew a hidden zipper without a special sewing foot.
Tricks from experienced craftswomen
To the result of the work pleased the eye, and the dress was sitting perfectly, before taking up sewing the lock, you should listen to useful tips.
- The harmony of colors is needed: the zipper must exactly match the tone of the product. Despite the fact that it is not visible, the dog is still outside, so that any dissonance will be evident.
- If the fabric is loose, thin or cut out along the slant, then the adhesive base for the zipper is obligatory. For straight cut, it should be plain non-woven, and for cutting at an angle, it should be a special one, cut to the side. The lining strips on the glue are superimposed so that 2 mm goes beyond the fold line of the stock.
- The seam should not go on the teeth of the zipper, otherwise the fastener will quickly disperse.
- The line goes to the clasp, which fits exactly to the border of the neck.
- The finished seam with zipper is first smoothed and then smoothed.
- To iron the cut with the sewn in zipper should be from the inside, so that the teeth do not imprint on the fabric.
Recommendations on how to sew a secret zipper in a dress will help you cope with this important step of tailoring for five plus. Then the finished product will not only look neat, but will also sit perfectly on the figure. So the time that you spend on scrupulous work on stitching a fastener will be compensated for by the impeccability of your look.