The skirt has always been and continues to be an integral part of any woman’s wardrobe. The straight skirt is a real classic, which has not lost its relevance since its inception. Pencil skirt in popularity is not inferior to straight, which is easily explained by the fact that it is its slightly modified model.
Straight skirt, tight on the figure and slightly narrowed down, and is called pencil skirt. In order to keep up with fashion and get a wonderful thing in the wardrobe, Pencil skirt should sew with their own hands.
How to sew a pencil skirt with your own hands?
You will need fabric, scissors, zip, corsage belt and pattern paper. Pattern the future of the product, build as for a straight 2-skirt skirt. Taking this pattern as a basis, proceed to the construction of the drawing.
From the vertical line of the side seam, set aside the value of narrowing 9 cm below the intersection point with the line of the hips. On the back panel, make an allowance for an incision of about 7 cm. When cutting out parts from selected fabric, do not forget to leave allowances for embedding the fastener, seam allowances and hemming from below.
From top to bottom, start machining parts. Sweep sweep. Sweep the waistband to the top. Then try it on. If everything suits you, you can stitch darts and sweep over the incision, side and top sections. At the end, sew the bottom of the pencil skirt, iron it and sew the necessary loops.
How to sew a high-waisted pencil skirt?
- You can sew a skirt with a high waist. To do this, prepare a ready-made pattern of a dress, or a skirt that fits perfectly to your figure. With a waist above the usual 5 cm, the skirt can be sewn as usual. If the waist height exceeds the usual one by 7 cm, prepare corset bones, which will then need to be inserted into the model lines.
- Put the model lines on the pattern, starting from the selected model. From the waist line up, set aside 7 cm. After that, draw a horizontal line to the top of the future skirt, and extend the straight sections with straight lines to the top edge. On the created model lines move the dies of the pattern. Modify coquette lines. They should turn out front figured, and behind - straight. On the sideline, the transition at the coquette should be smooth. Round the bottom line of the coquette. Further equally narrow reliefs on the back and front panel of the future product. But be careful, do not narrow them more than 6 cm. 3 cm you should go to the back panel, and 3 cm - to the front.
- Cut out 4 details for double yoke. Glue the details of the upper part and process the bottom with the help of fabric dublerin. Details cut out on 2 pcs. To give the skirt an elegant silhouette pencil, cut 3 wedges out of chiffon. Sew all the details together, leaving the back and front seams unstitched. Sew together the cloth, while in the back relief, leave space to later sew wedges of chiffon. Sew a yoke to the bottom, aligning the tuck with the model lines. Then sew the zipper into the back seam of the product.
- Sew the lining to the bottom yoke. The lining pattern should match the bottom panel. Now sew 3 wedges into 3 sections of the back panel. Process the hem, stitching and decorating with braid and lace. Exclusive pencil skirt ready.
How to sew a straight skirt?
- Before you start sewing, pick up the fabric. For the beginning master, it is better to stop the choice on stretch fabric, which allows you to hide small flaws when the time comes to fit the skirt around the figure. Also prepare a ruler, centimeter, chalk and scissors. To build a drawing of a straight skirt, you need to take into account all the features of your figure.
- For a standard figure, it is enough to take 3 measurements: half-size of the waist, hips and length of the product. With a non-standard figure with steep hips, protruding belly or buttocks, you will need a few more measures: the length of the skirt from the front to the floor, side and back. After that, you need to decide on the allowances for free fit and you can begin to build patterns.
- Taking measurements, the centimeter does not need to be tightly tightened; it should not be tightly stretched or loosely hanging. When taking a length measure, it is better to stand in front of the mirror in the shoe with which you are going to wear a straight skirt, and, applying the length of fabric, determine the desired length of the future product.
- After that, the fabric must be protected from shrinkage in the future. This can be done by soaking a wool or stretch cut in warm water, then gently pressing and ironing it when it dries. Fabric of a different quality can simply be steamed with an iron.
- Then, along the lobar fabric, you need to fold and cut into 2 identical halves. They will be the front and back of the future product. The piece should be folded in half again in half and leave 3 cm below the hem. Then, using chalk and a ruler, draw a horizontal line indicating the bottom of the skirt. Then measure from it the length and perpendicular to the fold along the line line to draw a line that will become a waist.
- After that, perpendicular to the waist and bottom lines to draw lines, measuring 25 cm above, is the line of the hips. In the middle of the fold along the waistline you need to position the dart, its depth should be 2 cm, and height - 8 cm. After fitting it can be corrected.
- 2 pieces need to fold the fabric face inward and chop with pins. After that, you can cut the fabric along the lines built, not forgetting to add 1.5 cm of allowances. Now you can sweep the straight skirt, measure, correct all the defects and stitch the finished parts together.
Pencil skirt, as well as straight, for many years remains at the peak of popularity. She is elegant and versatile. It can be made from any fabric, color, length and with any finish. These skirts can be put on any event, work or solemn reception. Any woman can sew a pencil skirt, taking only the first step into the exciting world of needlework.