Cotoneaster is an evergreen shrub plant. It is actively used in hedges, even the lowest landing.
The leaf plate of such a shrub is not large. It has a dark green shade and the usual oval shape. In the autumn period, the leaves turn red.
During the flowering period, you can observe pure white or with a pinkish tinge not large flowers.
If a cotoneaster is grown in one place without a transplant for a long period of time, then it will live longer than if we determine the place of its stay several times in a practical way. The longest period of the life of this plant can be about fifty years. Although the cotoneaster is experiencing the transplant itself, not quite badly.
The most important thing in the cotoneaster is that the plant has a powerful development of branches, as well as originality of growth forms. Cotoneaster can be and creeping species with a straight crown.
Cotoneaster, this is just one of those plants that is suitable for your hedge as well as possible.
This is due to the fact that the cotoneaster has a thick, branchy crown with a very beautiful interweaving of shoots and perennial branches between them. Foliage will delight you with a lush green color, as well as its change to the autumn reddish version.
The decorative pluses include the presence of the fruit of the cotoneaster, which is distinguished by its red and black color solutions. Fruits are long enough on the branches of such a shrubby plant as cotoneaster.
Species diversity has more than forty different varieties of cotoneaster.
Cotoneaster breeds seeds, branches, cuttings or grafting.
If you decide to use seeds for planting, remember that their germination is extremely low, and besides, the dormant period is too long.
Will you choose the cuttings? Then know that they are best rooted when tightly covered with a landing film. For breeding cotoneaster cuttings, the best time is July. The same applies to vaccinations.
And so landing ...
It is best to choose a well-lit area for your cotoneaster. The penumbra, and especially the shadow, the plant suffers with difficulty, its growth and development slows down.
The soil will suit him the most diverse. It does not have to be fertile black soil. As for the issue of fertility, and the issue of soil moisture, killerheads do not find fault with much. It is possible to independently prepare the ground for a cotoneaster from turf land, sand, and peat compost, taking them in two proportions: one: two.
The soil is also important to provide lime.
We start landing. To do this, it is necessary to prepare the planting pits so that the gap between the plants from half a meter to two meters is maintained. Such a scatter of the interval between plantings is related to how wide the crown of one or another kind of cotoneaster will be. The depth of the pit for planting should be up to fifty - seventy centimeters.
A drainage layer of gravel or broken brick is necessarily lined to the bottom. The drainage layer must be at least ten to twenty centimeters.
When digging in your planting, make sure that the soil ends at the level of the root collar.
Care for the cotoneaster of any class will be almost the same. In springtime it is necessary to supply the plant with mineral fertilizers. And in summer, just before flowering, the soil is enriched with potassium (liquid fertilizers can be used for this purpose) and granulated superphosphate.
Cotteryaster treats hot, dry weather as well as cold weather. However, if the soil is thoroughly dried, it should be moistened. So a month for one plant for watering you will take up to eight liters of water. Watering should be no more than twice a month.
To shape your cotoneaster is not so difficult. It tolerates mold trim well and for you it will not cause much difficulty.
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