Flower Brugmansia is an interesting option not only for the dacha, but also for a city apartment, especially since she spends half of her life indoors just because of the poor tolerance of cold weather. A tall shrub, sometimes stretched out to 5 m in length, with flowers whose diameter is 20 cm, will not go unnoticed and can become both a beautiful hedge and a decor for an internal balcony wall.
Brugmansia flower: growing from seed
Seed propagation of Brugmans is considered the simplest, but at the same time not the most preferable because it does not allow to preserve the purity of hybrid varieties, as a result of which unpleasant surprises are possible at the moment. when the buds begin to form. At the same time, it is the most inexpensive and easy method to understand if it is needed on the site.
- Sowing is carried out in February (the deadline is in March), the standard soil is selected from peat, garden soil and sand, slightly fertilized. It is worth digging up the seeds - just sprinkle with a layer of sand before moistening it with warm dispersed water from a spray bottle.
- The container must be tightened with a film, in which several holes are made for air exchange, and placed in the region of scattered light.
- The air temperature near the seedlings should not fall below +20 degrees, and in high humidity it is desirable to keep it within + 24-25 degrees.
- After 7-10 days, the film is removed, the emerged shoots daily (up to 3 times a day) are sprayed with settled water at room temperature, not allowing the ground to dry and moisten the leaves.
- A picking is done when a 4-5 leaf appears, and you definitely need to go through a separate, but small pot stage before moving the seedlings to a large pot or open ground.
Planting and maintenance in the open field
A transplant of burans from a small container to a large one or to a dacha site is carried out when the root system expands to the volume of the entire pot. For this reason, it is recommended to swoop down a flower in plastic or peat cups so that it is convenient to remove them painlessly by simply moistening the ground and squeezing the container walls several times.
- It is recommended to plant Brugmansiya in open ground without getting rid of the pot: due to the fact that before the cold it is necessary to carry the flower into the room, and it does not tolerate transplants, professionals advise to move bushes from small cups to large containers. They must make holes at the bottom and sides, to ensure the metabolism between the substrate at the roots and the common ground. In the ground one should dig a big hole, corresponding to the size of the container, and place the container in it, deepening by 2-3 cm, then sprinkle with earth.
- The root system of Brugmansia is very powerful, so the container even for a young plant should have a volume of at least 10 liters: the roots will grow quickly, will feel cramped, and this will negatively affect the condition of the flower.
- If you plant a bush immediately in open ground, eliminating the container, and do not carry it away for the winter, be sure to cover the area around the roots with a spruce branches. The shoots will freeze in any case, and in the spring the Brugmansia will release new ones, but the roots close to the surface can be saved immediately. At the same time, it is important to remember that the flowering in Brugmansia, which is hibernating on the street, will begin much later, sometimes it even happens by autumn.
- Planting area in the country should be under constant sunlight, but protected from wind and water accumulation in the soil. It is recommended to avoid lowlands, as well as shaded areas - shoots will stretch, but flowering will be weak.
- Bushes may need props to which they need to be tied.
- Watering is needed only on dry and hot days - the flower well retains moisture, so usually it is enough natural moisture. At the same time spraying of leaves is always added to watering.
- Weekly, under Brugmansia, it is necessary to make complex fertilizers, and during the vegetative period the plant suffers from a deficit of potassium and phosphorus. At the same time, it is impossible to forget about the preliminary introduction of peat or humus into the soil, which is carried out when planting a flower.
Brugmansia: care and reproduction in the apartment
In winter, this flower is always brought into the room, because it is not adapted to the cold, and dies at the slightest decrease in temperature. The signal to change the "place of residence" of Brugmansia is the night cooling of the air to +5 degrees: everything below this limit is destructive for the flower. At the same time in the apartment she needs no less attention than in the open field, as a result of which a number of rules are developed on the content of Brugmansia.
- A flower pot is chosen with breathing walls, so they should not be enamel, glaze and other coatings. In the absence of such options, you can use the usual plastic pot, a light color, if the bush will sit in it, not only in cold weather, but also in summer. The volume depends on the age of the bush, but the minimum value is 10 liters.
- The room into which the flower pot is brought should be well lit, and even artificial lighting can be required, since the light day for Brugmansia should be at least 14 hours.
- In contrast to good lighting, the air temperature in the room should not be high, although winter is not a rest period for this plant. It is optimally maintained at +16 degrees and not lowering more than up to +14 degrees. If the temperature rises, the proportion of lighting should also increase.
- The air in the room with a flower should not stagnate, so it is aired every day, but the bush itself needs to be covered or simply moved from the path of the air currents: Brugmancia is very afraid of drafts.
- Unlike other plants, this flower even needs fertilizers even in winter: it is fed monthly, in small portions, increasing the dosage with the approach of spring.
- The winter irrigation schedule for Brugmans is similar to the summer one: it is important to maintain a high humidity of the substrate. However, if the daylight is short (there is no additional light), it is better to make the watering more rare - this will reduce the risk of rotting of the roots.
- An important nuance concerns the biological rhythms of Brugmancia: towards the beginning of March, the pot must be set to the window so that it receives a lot of natural light - this will not allow the flower to grow, which will negatively affect the subsequent flowering.
As for the reproduction of Brugmansia, 3 main methods are used here: cutting, sowing and cutting. About planting was discussed earlier, now we should dwell on the other options. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
- The cuttings of Brugmansia are permissible through annual shoots taken from the crown. They are cut to a length of 25 cm or less, leaving a growth point at the top. It is recommended to do this at the end of spring, after full awakening of the bush. Cuttings are embedded in water, left in the light and warm, covered with polyethylene to increase humidity. The roots should begin to form on the 12-14 day, after which they wait for 5-7 cm stretching. After that, you can move the cuttings to the peat mixed with sand, and constantly spray them for a month for full rooting.
- Reproduction by layings is made in the spring, through the use of last year's escape, intending to release the buds. At a depth of 1/4 of its diameter you need to make a transverse notch, wrap it with moist sphagnum and fix with polyethylene. Within 1.5-2 months moss is constantly moistened, and then removed, and the shoot is cut from the bush, if there are aerial roots at the site of the notch. The leaves are removed, the shoot itself is rooted in moist peat or a light mixed substrate, and after a month they are transplanted together with the soil surrounding the roots.
Regardless of where Brugmancia grows, it needs to be cut off in the spring: this is usually done at the beginning of March, when the bush wakes up and enters the active phase. Branched shoots are not cut, young and survived the winter shorten, and damaged completely eliminated. Work with the upper crown depends on what form of the bush you want to see.