Skirts with pleats are always very feminine and a great way to give the figure the very perfect silhouette of an hourglass, which not all girls have. She balances well the top of the top, emphasizes the waist, can lead to harmony too asthenic physique. Among these styles, a skirt with bantovye or counter folds is particularly interesting. It is very easy to sew it yourself, however there are some important nuances.
Features of the pattern skirt with bantovye folds
As such, the pattern for the skirt with cross-folds does not exist, because if you dissolve all the seams on the finished product, you can see that it is a simple wide canvas, assembled in a certain way. Therefore, the drawing is often carried out directly on the fabric, rather than on paper, but some calculations will still have to be made if you want to get a harmonious silhouette that successfully gives your figure, and not a simple collection of folds.
- The main parameter, which is recommended to repel - waist girth. It is required to be multiplied by a factor that determines the degree of pomp of the future product: professionals call a minimum parameter 1.5, but 2 and 2.5 can be made. In addition, added to the increase in the seam - about 10 cm, which will be divided in half already on the finished pattern.
- The length of the product depends on your height, and the width must take into account the weight of the material. A light fabric with a large number of folds will create a strong volume and practically “stand up”, while a heavy one will keep the silhouette vertical, but it needs a strong fit, otherwise the product will be different from a simple straight skirt.
It is also worth making a minimal top increase for the drawstring or belt straightening. At the bottom, processing may not be necessary if the fabric is not frayed (for example, tulle).
The choice of fabric for the product
As for the direct selection of the material, it all depends entirely on your taste, as well as skills to work with certain fabrics. Evening, solemn versions of skirts with counter folds are sewn from heavy, dense materials: velvet, wool. They leave the silhouette quite fitted, but it’s not easy for a beginning woman to cope with them.
In the current season, very light, fluffy skirts made from organza, tulle, chiffon, crepe-satin have gained popularity. They can be both evening and everyday choices, but they are also not too simple in design, since these fabrics are smooth, gliding, and tulle cuts actively cling to each other. It is recommended to combine these fabrics with each other, since some of them are translucent and need lining.
If you do not have the skill of working with complex materials, pay attention to chintz, cotton, flax - thin, but quite versatile and not capricious fabrics. With or without a pattern - a matter of personal preference.
How to sew a skirt with counter folds?
The process of cutting such a skirt takes no more than 1 hour, and about the same amount is spent on waving and tailoring of the product itself. Therefore, even novice craftswomen spend only 2.5-3 hours on a skirt with counter folds. The algorithm is as follows:-
- Draw a rectangular pattern on the seamy side of the selected fabric prepared by personal measures. Mark chalk points of the folds, draw them in the form of verticals to the bottom edge. The number of folds is determined arbitrarily, but often there are no more than 4 of them on each half (front and back).
- To find folds on the canvas, it is divided into equal parts (by the number of folds), each dashed line is divided in half (this will be the center of the fold), and these halves are divided into 3 parts each.
- In order to obtain a fold, any of the parts are folded in accordions in small zones, connecting in the center, at the dotted line. After all the canvas will be collected in this way, from the top, departing from the edge of 5-10 cm, make a small line that will fix the result.
- Before stitching a rectangle into a cylinder, iron it out. Usually this seam becomes rear or side, and the zipper is sewn into it.
If necessary, add to the skirt a belt made of the same fabric or satin ribbon, and also treat the bottom edge of the product with an overlock or oblique inlay. The finished skirt can be decorated with absolutely any decorative elements, although its silhouette often does not require this, since it is completely self-sufficient.